Once again in the off season of Tasmania, it was time to go rogue. The founder of Tasmanian Motorcycle Tours – Bruce had a wild idea and I was more than happy to get completely caught up in the action!
Coming together with our mates and sweep riders there was 4. Brandon. Bruce, Ben and Mitch…. there was no support vehicle. Planning begun many months ago with Birdsville the destination. A few catch ups over cold beer had a plan and we all committed, this would be a 5000km journey into the desert.
Heading to the boat is always exciting, gives a great sense of adventure. We helped tie the bikes down and had a rolling crossing to the port in Geelong.
Day 1 seen us trying to lay down some serious km and get towards where we needed to be. Today would be 600km and finish up in Loxton. The trip was plagued with big bike vs small bike banter and today the small bikes scored a point. Fuel was already a problem on day 1 with siphoning activities taking place from the GSA to ensure our arrival. Suicidal birds and tumble weeds on the way into Loxton I was already surprised at the desert like vista we were seeing on day 1. Meeting up with some new American friends in Loxton guaranteed a big night of belly laughs.
Day 2 was another reasonable day to Wilpena Pound for 2 days exploring the Flinders Ranges and completing SkyTrek. Both are incredible experiences I would recommend to anyone. Cardo head units ensured safety but more commonly inappropriate and unprovoked prods at each other. We were just genuinely having a very good time. Brandon was unlucky to make contact with a kangaroo but kept it upright. Emus in the area too so plenty to see… and look out for.
Day 5 we headed further North to Mungaranni. Today was the start of chaotic tire troubles on the back of the Africa Twin. Just a few km into the Birdsville Track the newly fitted tire split across the top looking like it was poking its tongue (tube) out at us. A side of the road repair was a patch at best but we would soon learn the hospitality of the Outback. On arrival to Mungaranni we set up camp and acquired a spare hoop…. It couldn’t really be called a tire but we were glad to have it. Great pub here, amazing skies and first time using the mountain of camping gear our bikes were carrying.
Day 6 Today is Birdsville, but we have plenty of rough going to get there. Mitch’s tire is holding air and we headed off. We had our first glimpse today of what the rain does to the roads up here with 10″ deep loose gravel and plenty of water crossings. Today was also a harsh introduction to bulldust and sand. It took a bit to muster the courage but 90KMH is definitely easer for these sections than 20kmh. Dropped my bike today for the first time – but had it up “just waiting for a mate” before anyone seen anything so it didn’t happen. Making it into Birdsville we ditched the panniers and headed straight for Big Red. Little bikes got a point here being the only 2 bikes up Big Red. At one point I was at 5000RPM and simultaneously at walking pace (someone walked past and asked if I was ok!) but the F800 seen the top. Fantastic pub and once again we were repairing the back tire on the AT.
Day 7 Heading South to Innamincka. I think we pulled the back tire out of the AT 6 times today. The split increased and we fitted the “hoop”. Again we seen Outback legends in action where 2 4wd’s pulled up concerned if we had everything we needed. We thought we did but then they asked if we had beer? All of a sudden a cold beer being enjoyed with new mates in the absolute middle of nowhere… sensational. Batoota pub was great to see with vintage cars and just interesting things laying everywhere. Towards the Innamincka end Bruce temporarily lots the location of his phone where a search took place that would rival any airport security. Once located (in a vent of the jacked) we kept moving. Incident here where one of us did decide to go home in a plane early (maybe just couldn’t be bothered.. weve done 3000km) but only minor injuries. The 3 remaining amigos limped into Innamincka at 2am after pumping the tire up another 5 times.
Day 8 was spent in Innamincka sorting bike and gear for the rider that took a plane home. At times I would have taken a plane home too. Again, the help from locals was just second to none. Park Ranger picking up the bike.. and storing it. Local store organizing freight for his gear and panniers back to Tasmania, Local station had a brand new tire to fit the AT and it was all coming together… amazing people. We settled for some more sleep as the rain started. 10mm forecast but thank the heavens we only got 4mm. This would be more than enough.
Day 9 Started with a trip to Burke and Wills burial site who were early day explorers. An amazing story worth looking up. Paul our park ranger had mentioned a camel hanging around the area and we found that too. What we didn’t know is how much we really needed this daylight at the other end of the day. With the rain and our guide tucked up in Adelaide hospital this was going to be a day to remember. Halfway down the Strzelecki track we found the section locals had warned us about. This was wet bulldust I believe and almost blocked up the front tire to the point of not turning anymore. 30km in 1st gear was painful but immensely funny at the same time. Taking its toll on fuel combined with a small off in some roadworks and missing our turn off at ironically “Mt Hopeless” some of the bikes were screaming for fuel. The intended destination was Arkaroola but after some calls (Sat Comms are a must up here), double checking we didn’t have our usual support vehicle!, and adding up Km we made the call to head for Lyndhurst. The publican and local legend Lorry had fuel at the pub, great beds and a good feed. Arriving after dark in amazing skies but it was an eye opener to how remote this area really is.
Day 10 Camping again today at Craddock Pub. Not a massive day but we went back through the Flinders Ranges and stopped for lunch at the Great Wall Of China… not joking – look it up. Trying out our emergency supplies today of dehydrated meals. These things impressed beyond belief. Combined with a jet boil we had the best coffee, Butter chicken, Pasta and even Berry crumble in an amazing setting. I think we sat here on our camp chairs for around 3 hours. An unexpected absolute highlight.
The remaining days seen Halls Gap and a small part of the great ocean road into Geelong. Bikes behaved very well for the 5400km and 67 hours of actual riding time. Thanks to my mates for making this trip one I will never forget. The silly childish jokes and constant laughs amongst amazing terrain I never thought I would see ….. wow.